Taos County, New Mexico Is Having a Moment: Art, Mountains and Wellness Retreats
By UserCarte · 5 min read
Taos County sits in northern New Mexico, roughly 70 miles north of Santa Fe, and packs three draws into one high-desert valley: a century-old art colony, the Sangre de Cristo Mountains with New Mexico's highest peak, and a deep-rooted hot springs and wellness scene. It's compact enough for a long weekend but rewards a week. Plan on a rental car and time to acclimatize to 7,000 feet.
Why is Taos County getting so much attention right now?
Taos has been an art destination since the Taos Society of Artists formed in the early 1900s, and writers and painters including D.H. Lawrence and Georgia O'Keeffe passed through Mabel Dodge Luhan's orbit here. What's changed is the mix. A wave of remote workers and creative transplants arrived in the early 2020s, bringing new galleries, coffee roasters and studio spaces to a town that already had more working artists per capita than almost anywhere in the American West. At the same time, the wellness industry discovered what locals always knew: the county has geothermal springs, dark night skies, and an unusually high concentration of bodyworkers, sound practitioners and yoga teachers. Add Taos Ski Valley's steep, high-altitude terrain and off-grid architecture experiments like the Earthship community west of town, and you get a place that appeals to skiers, art collectors and people on a silent retreat in equal measure.
When is the best time to visit?
Late September through mid-October is the standout window. Aspens turn gold across the Enchanted Circle, daytime temperatures are mild, and the summer monsoon has passed. Ski season generally runs mid-December into early April at Taos Ski Valley, with the deepest snow usually in January and February. Summer brings warm days, cool nights and reliable afternoon thunderstorms in July and August — hike early and be off exposed ridgelines by noon. Spring is the weakest season: windy, dusty and unpredictable, though hotel rates drop accordingly. Whenever you go, remember that Taos Pueblo closes to visitors for extended ceremonial periods, typically including a quiet time in late winter or early spring, so confirm access before building a day around it.
How do you get there and get around?
Most visitors fly into Albuquerque, about two and a half hours south by car, or Santa Fe's smaller airport, roughly 90 minutes away. Taos Regional Airport has seen seasonal commercial and charter service come and go, so check what's operating for your dates rather than assuming. A rental car is effectively mandatory: attractions are spread across a county the size of a small state, and there is no comprehensive public transit. The town of Taos runs a seasonal local shuttle, and ski season brings resort shuttles, but neither will get you to Ojo Caliente or the Wild Rivers area. Two driving routes deserve a full day each. The Enchanted Circle loops 80-odd miles through Arroyo Seco, Questa, Red River, Eagle Nest and Angel Fire. The High Road from Santa Fe climbs through Chimayó and Truchas and is far more scenic than the fast highway along the Rio Grande.
What should you actually do while you're there?
Start with Taos Pueblo, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities in North America — go with a guide and respect the posted photography rules. Then work through the museums: the Harwood Museum of Art for the Taos moderns, the Millicent Rogers Museum for Native and Hispanic jewelry and pottery, and the Taos Art Museum at the Fechin House for the building as much as the collection. Walk out onto the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge for the 600-plus-foot drop, and drive south to Ranchos de Taos to see the San Francisco de Asís church that O'Keeffe painted. Hikers can tackle Wheeler Peak, New Mexico's 13,161-foot high point, as a long day from the ski valley, or opt for gentler trails at Williams Lake and the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument. For water, choose between the polished resort experience at Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs in the county's southwest corner and the free, clothing-optional riverside pools reached by rough dirt roads and a steep hike near the gorge.
Where should you stay?
Base yourself in or near Taos town if you want galleries, restaurants and plaza walkability. Historic adobe inns and the Mabel Dodge Luhan House put you inside the story, and the latter still hosts writing and wellness workshops. Skiers should weigh ski-in lodging at Taos Ski Valley — quiet, cold and above 9,000 feet — against cheaper rooms in town with a 30-minute mountain drive. Arroyo Seco splits the difference and has become the county's most charming small-village stay. For a retreat, look at spa resorts on the edge of town, rentable Earthships for something genuinely unusual, or the soaking-focused lodging at Ojo Caliente. Book well ahead for fall foliage, holiday ski weeks and Fiestas.
Frequently asked questions
How many days do you need in Taos?
Three full days covers Taos Pueblo, two or three museums, the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge and one hot spring. Five days lets you add the Enchanted Circle drive, a serious hike and a spa day without rushing. Skiers and retreat guests should plan a week, since altitude adjustment eats into your first day regardless.
Is Taos better than Santa Fe?
They serve different trips. Santa Fe is larger, with more restaurants, a major opera and easier flights. Taos is smaller, higher, wilder and cheaper, with better skiing, closer mountain access and a more bohemian feel. Many visitors drive the High Road between the two and treat them as a single northern New Mexico itinerary.
Do you need to worry about altitude in Taos?
Yes, mildly. Taos town sits near 7,000 feet and the ski valley starts above 9,000, so expect shortness of breath, poor sleep and headaches on day one. Drink far more water than usual, go easy on alcohol the first night, and save Wheeler Peak or steep skiing for later in your trip.